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Saturday, May 4, 2013

Puerto Rico - Days 2 & 3

     On Friday morning, we had to do a bit of practice for the ceremony but afterwards, we were free until the rehearsal dinner. We hopped in the car and headed to San Juan. Being cheapskates, we endured the grueling free road instead of using the toll road. The traffic in and out of San Juan can be heavy and the roads definitely could use more lanes but I don't know how they'd squeeze in another lane of traffic. We parked downtown in a parking garage because it seemed to be the cheapest option we could find. We didn't know much about San Juan except that somewhere there we would find the place that invented the piña colada drink and we would also see a neighborhood called La Perla that we should stay away from because of its connections with the drug trade. I'd read some reviews about San Juan from people who obviously weren't adept at traveling nor open to other cultures. A lot of the stories I read seemed like they were trying to frighten people away from places instead of encouraging an open mind and adventurous spirit. Oh well. We parked near the San Cristóbal Fort and just started walking.
     In 1521, Spanish colonists established San Juan and named it for John the Baptist. San Juan and Puerto Rico were being used interchangeably for the city and the island. This confused many and in the middle of the 17th century, San Juan became established as the name of the city and Puerto Rico for the rest of the island. Puerto Rico was used as a stopover place for people moving between the New World and the Old World. Fortresses were built to guard the gold and silver being mined and carried back to Spain. Naturally, the English and Dutch tried to seize the island from the Spanish throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. In 1898, the US laid claim to the island after some skirmishes with Spanish troops as part of the Spanish-American conflict. We didn't visit the San Cristóbal Fortress but did walk towards the other one, Fort San Felipe del Morro. It had a beautiful open meadow that bordered the fortress, the Santa Maria de Pazzi Cemetery, and La Perla. We looked down into La Perla and it seemed run down but for a poor neighborhood, they had an amazing beach front section of town. There were tons of kids flying kites, playing soccer, and picnicking with their parents in the large open field.
     It only cost $3 a piece to enter the fort and for an additional $2, we could have gotten a pass to the San Cristóbal Fort also. We declined. The fort of San Felipe del Morro sat at the top of the small island of San Juan. It was given the green light back in 1539 to act as a protectorate of the bay of San Juan. The lovely engineers decided to limit the steps and instead, built large ramps to go from the ground level up to the roof. It has been attacked by famous historical figures like Sir Francis Drake and George Clifford. The last active battle was in 1898 when the U.S. attacked the Spanish forces. The U.S. used it for six decades as a military post and even fired the U.S's first shots of World War I there. Today, it's preserved as a national park. There was a trolley that brought visitors all the way down the walkway and dropped them off near the gate. We had walked to it across the large meadow but decided that with the 90+ heat(32+C) and high humidity, we'd catch the trolley back to the city center.
     We ate lunch at a Spanish tapas restaurant. The food was good but not as good as real Spanish food. Afterwards, we walked through the streets of San Juan, stopping at various shops to look at local crafts or because Izzy thought she saw something she needed but really didn't. The houses and buildings were all painted bright colors that seemed to be fitting for the tropical climate. The streets were cobbled, small and only allowed traffic to flow in one direction. This caused a congestion nightmare when a delivery truck stopped for work. We walked from one end to the other and back again to take it all in. After several bottles of water, we decided to stop when we found the sign we'd been looking for in front of a nondescript doorway of a place called Barrachina. The sign stated that the first piña colada's had been invented there many years ago. We headed in and tried one and they were amazing. I'm sure the heat and our strong thirst made them taste even better.
     Around 4:00, we headed back to the car, paid about $7.00 for parking for the day, and went to the airport. It took us a good hour to go the 15 miles or so to the airport from San Juan as the traffic was atrocious. We picked up someone else coming in for the wedding and headed back to the resort. Instead of enduring the free highway 3, we decided to take the toll road back. We had a great dinner at the resort's steak restaurant.
     Saturday, we spent the morning out on Palomino Island, the resort's private beach. We'd been so busy exploring that we didn't take any chances to go out to the beach. The ferry took about half an hour. We were some of the first people out there. The view was lovely and the water was incredible. There were a couple of small places to get food and drinks and the hotel offered lots of activities to do like jet skis, snorkeling, swimming, and sports. We grabbed a chair, relaxed, and did a bit of swimming before the afternoon ceremony. Sunday was a travel day back to Jacksonville and a return to the working week. Enjoy the pictures of the beach, it was as good as it looks.

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Puerto Rico - Day 1

     This is our 150th blog post. I guess we've seen a few places! There are still more trips from the past that I'm going to get to but for now, you'll just have to settle for these wonderful pictures from our trip to Puerto Rico. Izzy was hired to shoot a wedding on the northeast part of the island near the city of Fajardo. Since we hadn't been able to get away for a while, we took the opportunity to take a few days off of our day jobs and explore the island since we were already traveling down there anyways. We arrived Wednesday afternoon shortly before the soon to be bride and groom did. Izzy and I decided we'd rent a car so we could go exploring on our own Thursday and Friday. When we collected our bags, we caught a bus around to the rental agency. After a short wait, we had our car and were on our way. The only thing we weren't clear about was the toll system and how it worked. The girl told us to use the far left lane and that the camera would take a picture of our plate. She said their company had a contract with another company to negotiate toll rates for rental cars. Each time we passed through a toll plaza, we would be charged the toll and a daily $4.95 for activating the service of the company to negotiate. After picking up the car, we picked up the soon to be happy couple and made the long journey out to the El Conquistador Resort, where of course, the hotel people had not made our reservation and we had to hope they had a room for us. We spent the rest of the evening wandering around the grounds inspecting for good places to take pictures and seeing what they had to offer. Izzy and I are not resort people but we thought we'd give it a whirl once and stay with everyone involved in the wedding party.
     After a good nights sleep, we awoke Thursday morning ready to explore the island. The island has a new set of highways that are nice but don't cut through the small towns and villages like the old highways do. We chose highway 3 and headed south towards a more secluded part of the island. We had two goals for the day: find the pork highway to enjoy some lechon asado and visit El Yunque National Park. Our drive along highway 3 led us through some tight back roads and lots of small towns. The southern coast of Puerto Rico had some beautiful beaches and we stopped to enjoy the views a few times.
     We managed to find ourselves in the southeastern corner of the island near the town of Patillas. It was there where we turned onto Hwy 184 to head up into the mountains. At the base of the mountain, we stopped to check out Lago Patillas. The view was beautiful and inspired us to try out the panoramic setting on our phone's cameras. From there we headed up the mountain. The climb was steep and the road had no guardrails. The lanes were just big enough for two cars to pass each other but just small enough to make you cringe every time you had to. One online review said to honk the horn when going around curves. We saw houses that seemed to be hanging just over the cliff and somehow, didn't fall off. We saw other houses with driveways so steep, it seemed impossible to be able to get the house. In the midst of it all were small post boxes for everyone in the same area.
     Finally, after five hours of driving(mind you we stopped along the way and were in no hurry), we got to the region of Guavate, home of the small town famous for roasting pigs. We had lunch at El Rancho Original. The restaurant was set up like a buffet and we picked what we wanted, paid, then ate in a large cafeteria type place. It was all open air and had places for bands to play and people to dance. Unfortunately, no one was out while we there except a group of graduating high school seniors enjoying their freedom from school. We had a plate of roasted pig, some burnt skin, and a serving of arroz gandule(local rice dish with lentils/pigeon peas). It was delicious and well worth the trip. We continued on through the small town and caught the toll highway back towards El Yunque National Forest.
     In an attempt to understand the Puerto Rican toll system, I pulled over into the pay lane of the toll road instead of driving through the far left lane as instructed. My thought process was, if we're going to pay the toll anyways, I'd rather not incur the $4.95 daily charge for activating the use of the company to negotiate the rate of the toll road. I watched the car in front of us pay a few bucks and head on. When I pulled up, the attendant asked me for a card I didn't have. I asked if I could just pay the toll and go. She informed I couldn't. I needed a card or a magnetic pass that I had to pay for and then I could pay the toll. She printed me a ticket with a number to call and sent me on my way without taking any money. I was thoroughly confused and convinced I'd just gotten us a bigger fine. (It turns out I didn't, I just wasted my time and paid the $4.95 fee too.) We made it to El Yunque Park with a couple of hours to poke around. There's a visitor station you can stop at but you must pay a fee to walk around it. Otherwise, you can do like we did and just drive in for free. There were various spots throughout the park where we could park the car and go on hikes through amazing landscapes. We stopped at some of the waterfalls for some pictures and again at a place where we could hike to more waterfalls. The sounds, sites, and smells of the park were great. It was only made better because the resort where we were staying was trying its hardest to imitate what the park naturally did and it couldn't even come close to what the park did.
     We had to leave by 6:00 because the park gates close and we didn't want to spend the night in the park without proper provisions. The drive back to the resort was short and we spent the rest of the evening hanging out with the wedding party. Our first day in Puerto Rico was definitely a success!