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Monday, September 20, 2010

Copenhagen, Denmark - Day 2

       Our second day in Copenhagen was nastier weather wise than the first. We got off to a late start because we were hoping that the rain would subside but it never really did. We returned to the old part of town but instead of riding the bikes, we walked because they had made our legs sore the day before. We started the day with a walk through Ørstedparken near the area we had walked through the day before. It was nice and relaxing but the rain made all of the trails really muddy. Afterwards we headed back to the Amagertorv area but instead of walking along the canal with the Parliament and old stock exchange, we turned left up Holmens Kanal. Our trip was stalled for a bit as we had to pass a lot of time standing under scaffolding to wait for the rain to die down a bit. We were starting to regret coming so late in the summer to Scandinavia and carrying everything we had through three countries instead of just returning to Spain. The rain finally slowed to a drizzle and we walked on and started to discuss how this was going to be the longest day of the year for us because all we could think about was escaping the cold and rain to sunny Spain.
 
         As we walked along the Kanal street, we found a square with a National theater on one side and a small fair of food stalls from different European countries. We found a Spanish stall with paella and different meats and the people actually seemed to be Spanish. The predominant item for sale in the market was cheese in different shapes, sizes, and smells from France, Italy, Holland, and other countries. We walked around the square a bit and sampled some of the foods. We weren't terribly hungry because we ate lunch at a Chinese take away where we saw a bunch of locals lined up. We figured the lack of tourists meant it was probably a good place to eat so we gave it a whirl. I think outside of China, there must be a generic formula for Chinese food that reads something like combine tasteless brown rice, fried nothingness, top it with a mysterious red sauce or overly salty soy sauce, put it in a box and serve. From the market, we headed up towards the Nyhavn Street that seem to be on every postcard you see from Copenhagen.
        The area is famous for its 17th and 18th century brightly colored houses that line the street all the way to the harbor. It has a ton of old wooden ships(seem to be abandoned) that line the docks and apparently there are tons of places to entertain yourself there. We walked all the way down to the harbor but only found overpriced restaurants trying to lure us in with their food. Some of the people who dine here are so intent on sitting outside at these restaurants in the cold that they bring their own blankets or use ones supplied by the restaurant to keep warm. The inlet exists because an old king had prisoners build a canal to connect to the other canals in the city. The modern Danish government simply put a huge anchor at the end of the street to honor the people who serve in the Navy. So thoughtful. After exploring this area, we noticed that not so much time had passed and our desire to get to warm Spain and get rid of our luggage was making the day excruciatingly long.
       After visiting the harbor, we wandered through some side streets and found ourself in the middle of a palace complex called Amalienborg Palace. It consists of four different palaces built in the 18th century to commemorate the rise of the royal family in Denmark. One of the main palaces is called Frederick VIII's Palace and it stands at the center of Frederiksstaden, the district of the city that surrounds the palaces. The statue at the center is of King Frederik V and was finished a few years after his death. This statue is the starting point for a march that ends in the changing of the guard around noon. From the palaces, we walked out to the harbor and walked along it in the rain. There's a good view of the Opera house and its terrible design and the bridge from Sweden to Denmark. The fountain is called the Gefion Fountain and features animals pulling the Norse goddess Gefjion. It currently serves as a wishing well and a nice place to see over into the star shaped island that was once used as a military base. We finished our walk at the Marble Church, another piece from the era of commemorating 300 years of Danish Royalty. The foundation stone was set on Halloween of 1749 and should make it eerie that the church plans were discarded and it wasn't completed on schedule. It later sat in ruins for 150 years until someone came along and finished it with limestone near the end of the 19th century. We were so tired and cold that we had a small nap sitting in the church. As busy as the day may sound, it was still only three in the afternoon at this point and the lengthy day trudged on. We passed some time in a coffee shop and finally decided to just head back to our hosts' apartment for dinner. We don't have any photos of where she took us later that evening.
        There is a portion of Copenhagen known as Christiansand. It's a haven of modern day hippies and those who don't want any part of the EU system. The people there have taken over a part of the city that was once left for ruins and have made it their home. You are free to walk around and explore it but they don't like you taking pictures so we don't have any. The place is full of big buildings and the people seem to be trying a utopian society project. They don't work, don't pay taxes, but do reap some of the benefits of the Danish system. There are signs up saying you are now entering the EU or leaving the EU. They have waterfront property and tons of places to hang out. Our host told us the police don't come in here and the government tries to pretend that the place doesn't exist. You can buy and sell hash there even though its illegal in the rest of the country. They have their own rules and abide by them since the government stays out of the way. It seems kind of intimidating to be there but the people never bothered us nor gave any indication that they would. We went back to her place, had dinner, and tried to get some sleep before our much awaited return to Spain. We will put up some pictures soon of our new neighborhood and home.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Copenhagen, Denmark - Day 1

        We met our host at the train station Sunday morning to return her keys and chat for a bit about our time in the city. She told us more of what had happened the night before and how she had to sleep at her work place because of missing the train. We gave her our bus cards so she could at least get a free ride home and ran to our train. The bridge across the bay is called the Øresund Bridge. It measures almost five miles across and hosts a four lane highway and a second level for the train tracks. It crosses the Øresund Strait, thus the basis of its name. Upon its completion in 1999, the Prince of Denmark and Princess of Sweden met in the middle to celebrate the completion only to be outdone by the King of Sweden and the Queen of Denmark having an official ceremony the following July. The view is awesome because you can see both Sweden and Denmark from a distance. We were told the middle of the bridge is the highest point in Denmark. The Danish have a put a huge windmill farm out in the water and the wind really creates a lot of energy there. The interesting thing about traveling in Denmark is that our ticket from Malmö to Copenhagen also allowed us to catch a bus in the city to where we were staying. We asked the girl we were staying with about this and she told us that for some reason, when you purchase a train ticket for a day in Denmark, it also works on public transport as well. Great thing to know. We stayed with another girl we found on couchsurfing in a part of the city called Norreport.
After settling in for a few minutes and getting some maps and advice from our new host, we headed into town. She was very kind and let us use two bikes that she had. Bike riding is one of the most common forms of transport. Almost half of the people of Copenhagen get around by bicycle and the extensive network of bike lanes available demonstrates the commitment they have to it. Our host told us that the government has been slowly making the car lanes smaller and the bike lanes bigger. The rules of the road are quite simple, stay right, move when you hear a bell, and go with the flow, no matter how scary it might seem. We headed back towards the center of the city and over to the King's Gardens in front of Rosenborg Castle. The castle dates back to 1606 as a summer home for Christian IV and is surrounded by a military installation. The gardens are nice for a walk or to relax on a bench. We saw lots of families out enjoying the sunny Sunday morning playing soccer or having a picnic. We didn't go in the castle but took a few pictures of it. Instead, we went to the Statens Museum because it was free and would be closed the next day. We wandered through it and found some good artwork from Scandinavian artists.
The weather was looking like it could turn bad at any moment as we headed towards the old city. The streets there are winding and lead in all directions. They are lined with tons of old buildings and newer more modern ones side by side. The first place we happened upon is called the Trinitatis Church. It was built in 1637 as a Renaissance project of King Christian IV. The only part we could enter was the tower so we paid the fee and walked up the 210 meter brick paved spiral walkway to the top. Along the way we found little open rooms with artifacts of the place when it was first used and fun facts like how the tower used to smell horrible because of all the people pooing the in the tower bathrooms. A famous Dane listed as a possible pooper of the tower is Hans Christian Andersen, famous for writing "The Ugly Duckling," "The Little Mermaid" and tons of other fairy tales. It seems its a centuries old secret that the best thinking is ton on the crapper. At the top of the tower is a beautiful 360 degree view of the city. You can see the wind mill farm in the sea, planes taking off, and all of the beautiful rooftops of the city. After viewing the city from above, we walked to Amagertorv and found a nice plaza with lots of people sitting around having coffee and relaxing on a Sunday afternoon. The street was only for pedestrians and lined with fancy shops and some nice fountains and statues. 
We rode our bikes through the streets for a bit more winding and twisting and turning as the weather slowly started to deteriorate. The wind blew a little harder and the rain eventually started coming down. We found ourselves out front of the Central Train Station and across the street from it is the ever popular amusement park in Copenhagen called Tivoli Gardens. Needless to say, the smells coming out of the place were great since there were places to buy food all along the edge of the park. The park actually opened over 150 years ago in 1847 and was the project of Georg Carstensen after he successfully convinced the king that the people needed amusement because it would stop them from thinking about politics. The park is famous for its nearly one hundred year old wooden roller coaster that is still in use. On another side of the park is the famous Copenhagen City Hall. It was opened in 1905 and a nice step up from the old city hall in use. It's ornate decoration is part of the National Romantic style and it houses the Jens Olsen's World Clock, a clock that contains over 14,000 parts. While we were walking around the area, we finally broke down and visited one of the many hot dog vendors scattered throughout the city and tried one of their delicious hot dogs with honey mustard sauce. It was tasty. 
To finish off the day, we returned to the Amagertorv area because there were some really nice buildings there we wanted to take some pictures of and we had waited hoping that the weather would clear up and give us some better shots but we waited to no avail. The buildings are part of a series of buildings along the canals by Amagertorv and include the old Stock Exchange and Christiansborg Palace, where the national parliament resides. The site has been used since the 12th century and the current building is the most recent design of a set of castles that has been on the site for hundreds of years. The old stock exchange has a spire on top and is one of many that dot the Copenhagen skyline. The other one we wanted to see was a bit of a bike ride and it is part of a church called Church of Our Savior. The spire at the top is a baroque style spire with an outer staircase that offers amazing views of the city. Unfortunatley, we arrived to late to walk up the spire and it was closed the next day due to the bad weather. We didn't feel as bad when we found out they wanted ten bucks to climb it. After visiting the church, we decided to call it a day and rode back to our hosts' house and cooked some dinner for her and us as a way of showing our appreciation for her opening her house up to us.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Malmö, Sweden

On Saturday morning, we caught a 9:30 train to Malmö, the last of our Swedish cities. We had thought about going on to Copenhagen but decided that Malmö merited a visit since its one of the top side-trip recommendations for people who are visiting Copenhagen. We met another girl there who had agreed to host us for one night. She gave us her keys and directions and told us that she couldn’t get out of working that day but we would meet her later in the evening. She quickly showed us a map and told us that we should go see the Twisting Tower.
Upon exiting the train station, we discovered an old post office building next door so we headed in that direction. It was right along the waterfront with a lighthouse and what we thought was the tower we should go see. The walk was quite breezy and we ended up carrying a lot of weight because we just packed a small bag to take to her apartment and left the rest of the heavy stuff in a locker at the train station. Best $7 spent on the whole trip for that locker. After walking along some boring roads lined with office buildings, we finally turned a corner and found ourselves facing the Twisting Tower and a skate park full of kids. The tower it turns out, was designed by the same guy, Santiago Calatrava of Valencia, Spain, who designed the complex of buildings in Valencia(See our photos for a refresher from October 2009). It was built because the locals felt like the city needed a landmark building again after their famous crane near the port was taken down nearly a decade ago. The building is now the home of the wealthy and prestigious, as it becomes the newfound symbol of the city.
After snapping a few photos, we headed back towards the train station because it bordered the old part of town we wanted to visit and it had some places to eat and we were starving. We passed the twisted gun statue on the way to eat. It was built as a symbol of non violence being a better diplomatic tool than violence. We chose a place that had wifi so we could look up some things to do in the city and found that the tourism office offered a card that provided free transport all day and free entry to some of the places we wanted to go. Our good weather seemed to be coming to an end after eating but we still bought the cards and headed off for Malmö’s castle. Along the way, we noticed the girl at the office who gave us the cards wrote the wrong dates on the card so we had to change them. The castle was near an old famous fish market that sells fresh fish caught in the sea next to the Malmö. They also have a few small fishermen’s houses from the early 20th century there. The castle offered an interesting history of the Danish/Swedish conflicts throughout the years and how Malmö had passed from one empire to the other on several occasions. There was also an exhibit about prisoners at the castle and a huge collection of photos that were taken of them and sent to the villages they settled in after serving their sentences.
We left the castle and walked towards a big windmill we had seen while touring the castle and looking out of the canon firing holes. It sits behind the castle in a large open field the locals seem to use for park activities like playing with pets, picnics, etc. We returned to the old town after wandering around the western part of the city. Our first stop was the main square just south of the train station. The city hall, an old hotel, St. Peter's Church, and some of Malmö's oldest buildings that dating back to the 14th century. The church is officially the oldest building dating back to 1300 and is built in a style called Baltic Brick Gothic. Unfortunately, it was closed and we were only able to take some pictures of the outside but the inside is supposed to be quite impressive. Izzy circled a few places on the tourist office map she wanted to see and one of the best spots we visited was probably the plaza at Lilla Torg. The buildings had a style that was very medieval and there were tons of restaurants and small craft shops lining the area around the square. From there, we headed south towards a chocolate factory that was on the map but after twenty minutes of aimless roaming around, we couldn't find it. We decided to take our stuff to our hosts' house and ended up having a great dinner at a local Caribbean style restaurant called Carib Kreole. We ended up sitting at the bar because the place was booked but the jerk chicken and red snapper were top notch. Unfortunately, our host never made it home because someone showed up late to work and she missed her train home so we had to stay at her place without her that night. We met her in the morning before going to Copenhagen and had some time to chat and really regretted that we weren't able to spend more time with her. 

Friday, September 17, 2010

Gothenburg, Sweden - Day 2

Our second day in Gothenburg was a lot more laid back and also rainier than the previous one. We slept in for a while and continued chatting with our host for a while because he had to go to work around two so we figured we’d hang out with him as much as we could. We left around 12:30 so he’d have some down time to get ready and do whatever he does before work. We’d heard that Gothenburg has some really nice botanical gardens so we caught the tram to the train station so we could find some food before heading south. We arrived to the stop, crossed the highway and walked down a street through what looked like a neighborhood and suddenly, a sign for the gardens appeared before us. We ended up walking through the entrance to the university that connects to the gardens. We walked through them for the better part of an hour and they have some really nice flowers and the layout is done to make it a great experience. The gardens have won a couple of awards in recent years, including a third place finish in the Most Beautiful Gardens in Europe competition.
We caught the tram back to the central station and found a bus our host told us would take us across the bridge to where they had this rebuilt boat that would be fun to see. We headed over to an area of town called Eriksberg right on the harbor and walked around for a bit. Sure enough, there is an old, restored looking boat just sitting along one of the docks like it’s the 1700’s. The boat looked abandoned and we were a little saddened that we couldn't walk out to it and explore it a bit. Oh well. After a quick walk around the harbor area, we caught the bus back across the bridge and got off at the huge Ferris wheel. It is similar to the one in London and provides a bird’s eye view of the city. It sits right next to the Opera House on the edge of the water. We watched a car for a few minutes try to run over an apple but it ended in disappointment and the apple simply rolling into a gutter. We walked around the main areas a little longer but the cold and impending rain inspired us to head on back to our hosts’ house and have some warm spaghetti we had made the night before and catch up on some little things we needed to do and had been putting off.