On August 21, we set off for Saint Jean Pied de Port, France. It's considered the starting point for the Camino Francés(French Trail) of the Camino de Santiago. The Camino is a pilgrimage that dates back to the medieval days of Spain. It's existence is owed to the discovery of the remains of James, one of the 12 apostles of Christ. The legend goes that his remains were smuggled out of Jerusalem and buried at the site of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It was one of the three important pilgrimages along with the one to Jerusalem and Rome. There are routes that begin from many points all over Europe like Paris, Le Puy, and Irun. There several routes across Spain and Portugal but we chose to walk the traditional camino. To plan for the route, you should budget for 30-34 nights averaging 7 euros a night for public albergues. All of the public ones in Galicia are 5 euros and all of the privates are 10 euros. In the other provinces, the prices vary but average about the same as in Galicia. You don't need to carry a lot of food with you as you stay in a town each night and can buy supplies there. We usually carried some meat and cheese to make a sandwich and something for a snack. Buying bread can be tricky as you start out long before the bakeries open. If you see a white truck driving around and honking its horn, they are selling bread. Just flag them down and ask for a barra de pan for your daily bread supply if you can't find a bakery. You can just carry a snack and purchase food along the way or eat at a restaurant. A lunch special or pilgrim special will you usually run you 10 euros and include: 2 courses, bread, dessert, and a drink.
Our Supplies: A backpack, 2-3 days of lightweight clothes(preferably that can breathe), soap to wash clothes, running shoes(we saw many people wearing hiking boots but they don't breathe and cause lots of blisters. We used Asics Tiger shoes with mesh tops so our feet could breathe and stay dry and we never got a blister. That's not a guarantee you won't, just stating that hiking boots aren't the best option.), sandals for the afternoon around the town, shower supplies, a sleeping bag(or lightweight silk liner is better option), a flashlight for early morning walking, anti-blister socks, vaseline for your feet, a brace for the knee, food for one day, bottle of water, and of course, a camera.
Arriving to Saint Jean Pied de Port can be tricky as it's a small village with few transport options to get there. Many people come from Paris and catch a train passing through Bayonne that stops in Saint Jean. We found out that a bus company runs a once daily bus from Pamplona. It leaves at 2:00 p.m. and costs around 10 euros. We caught an early morning bus from Madrid and arrived in Pamplona at 1:30 and continued on to Saint Jean. Our first order of business was finding an albergue, (auberge in French). We stayed at one we found for 10 euros a night. If you go to the accueil(welcome) office, they will find you one and give you a great packet of information on daily walking suggestions and a list of albergues along the camino. After checking in, we walked around the town and enjoyed the afternoon. It was hot but that didn't surprise us too much as it was late August.
Day 1: St Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles
Distance: 27.1 km(16.8 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 7-8 hours
Altitude: Start at 240 m(787 ft), rise to 1,400 m(4,593 ft) and end at 950 m(3,116 ft).
Bright and early on the 22nd, we woke up and got ready. Our goal for the day was to reach Roncesvalles in Spain. At 6:30, we were ready with our packed bags. We set out and the trail quickly welcomed us with a steep ascent out of town. The views were beautiful and our first sunrise in the Pyrenees was breathtaking, just like the walk. The first day took us through the Cize Pass. After 7 km, we reached a private albergue with a rather unpleasant man working there who wants nothing to do with you unless you purchase something from his overpriced establishment. He has no spirit of the camino and should be bypassed. They charge 30 euros a night to stay there. The trail continued on through cow/horse pastures and continued to offer amazing views. We were lucky to have a not so sunny day with a fair amount of wind. There were water fountains at 7 km and again at 20 km. There was one man with a refreshment stand at the top and he didn't overcharge. After 18-19 km, we reached the border with Spain and crossed into the Navarra region.
The descent into Roncesvalles was steep and rough on the knees. If you have a knee brace, this is the time to wear it. We arrived at 3:30 and checked in to the local monastery. It's the main albergue. It cost 10 euros and had a kitchen. Unfortunately, the only food you can buy is from vending machines so if you want to cook here, you must buy something in Saint Jean like pasta and sauce to be cooked there. Otherwise, you will have to go to the local restaurants for a 10 euro Pilgrim Menu Special. We arrived tired, sore, and soaked with sweat. As would become our daily routine for the rest of the hike, we checked in, took a shower, hand washed our clothes, hung them, then rested our bodies and our feet.
Day 2: Roncesvalles - Zubiri
Distance: 20.5 km(12.7 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: Start at 950 m(3,116 ft) and descend to 550 m(1,804 ft).
We woke up at 6:00 a.m. and headed out at 6:30 after washing up and packing our things. Nearly everyone in the monastery was awake by 6:30 as the deadline to leave most albergues is 8:00 a.m. The trail wound through some woods for a bit. This is the part where you will need a flashlight. We passed through the small towns of Espinal, Lintzoain, and ended in Zubiri. The guide suggested we go on another 5 km to Larrasoaña but my knee was throbbing from the rough terrain and the descent so we stopped in Zubiri. The municipal alberge was off the trail in the town and cost 4 euros a person. It had a sufficient enough kitchen to cook in and we found some shops with food. At this point, we contemplated throwing in the towel because of the knee problem but decided to continue on. The knee brace helped.
Day 3: Zubiri - Cizur Menor(just outside of Pamplona)
Distance: 25 km(15.5 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: Start at 550 m(1,804 ft) - end at 450 m(1,476 ft) with several steep ascents
Day 3 was a tough day because we were fighting off the urge to go home by continuing to walk. It's a beautiful walk through the woods and passes by calming streams and the fishing holes of locals. We started to meet people we'd seen for the first two days and discuss our various aches and pains. The most important question on the trail is "Where are you from?" It's a difficult adjustment carrying 15-20 pounds of weight on your back while walking up and down steep inclines. Outside of Zubiri, it's a bit industrious but it quickly returned to the mountainous terrain of Navarra. Fortunately, the day offered several kilometers of streams beside the trail and they have a great calming effect. One of the last ascents to get into Pamplona was steep and required a bit of fence hopping. A few km before reaching Pamplona, I realized I'd left my sunglasses in Zubiri. We entered into a small town called Trinidad de Arre, which is part of Pamplona. The trail led us through the important parts of the city and many people stopped at the municipal albergue there because it can hold over 100 people. We toured the city and walked the next 5 km outside of the city to the small town of Cizur Menor. There was an albergue off to the left as you enter the town that is 4 euros and another one around the corner for 8 euros. The town's shop is a bit scant on cooking supplies so we ate sandwiches again and overpaid for the meat and cheese. There were plenty of stores in Pamplona that we should have stopped in for supplies but we figured that there would be a real supermarket in Cizur. Here, we met a guy from Sweden and a fun Canadian who would walk all the way to Santiago as well. The best part of doing the camino is meeting the people and hearing their stories. The bonds formed are strong and lasting.
Our Supplies: A backpack, 2-3 days of lightweight clothes(preferably that can breathe), soap to wash clothes, running shoes(we saw many people wearing hiking boots but they don't breathe and cause lots of blisters. We used Asics Tiger shoes with mesh tops so our feet could breathe and stay dry and we never got a blister. That's not a guarantee you won't, just stating that hiking boots aren't the best option.), sandals for the afternoon around the town, shower supplies, a sleeping bag(or lightweight silk liner is better option), a flashlight for early morning walking, anti-blister socks, vaseline for your feet, a brace for the knee, food for one day, bottle of water, and of course, a camera.
Arriving to Saint Jean Pied de Port can be tricky as it's a small village with few transport options to get there. Many people come from Paris and catch a train passing through Bayonne that stops in Saint Jean. We found out that a bus company runs a once daily bus from Pamplona. It leaves at 2:00 p.m. and costs around 10 euros. We caught an early morning bus from Madrid and arrived in Pamplona at 1:30 and continued on to Saint Jean. Our first order of business was finding an albergue, (auberge in French). We stayed at one we found for 10 euros a night. If you go to the accueil(welcome) office, they will find you one and give you a great packet of information on daily walking suggestions and a list of albergues along the camino. After checking in, we walked around the town and enjoyed the afternoon. It was hot but that didn't surprise us too much as it was late August.
Day 1: St Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles
Distance: 27.1 km(16.8 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 7-8 hours
Altitude: Start at 240 m(787 ft), rise to 1,400 m(4,593 ft) and end at 950 m(3,116 ft).
Bright and early on the 22nd, we woke up and got ready. Our goal for the day was to reach Roncesvalles in Spain. At 6:30, we were ready with our packed bags. We set out and the trail quickly welcomed us with a steep ascent out of town. The views were beautiful and our first sunrise in the Pyrenees was breathtaking, just like the walk. The first day took us through the Cize Pass. After 7 km, we reached a private albergue with a rather unpleasant man working there who wants nothing to do with you unless you purchase something from his overpriced establishment. He has no spirit of the camino and should be bypassed. They charge 30 euros a night to stay there. The trail continued on through cow/horse pastures and continued to offer amazing views. We were lucky to have a not so sunny day with a fair amount of wind. There were water fountains at 7 km and again at 20 km. There was one man with a refreshment stand at the top and he didn't overcharge. After 18-19 km, we reached the border with Spain and crossed into the Navarra region.
Day 2: Roncesvalles - Zubiri
Distance: 20.5 km(12.7 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: Start at 950 m(3,116 ft) and descend to 550 m(1,804 ft).
We woke up at 6:00 a.m. and headed out at 6:30 after washing up and packing our things. Nearly everyone in the monastery was awake by 6:30 as the deadline to leave most albergues is 8:00 a.m. The trail wound through some woods for a bit. This is the part where you will need a flashlight. We passed through the small towns of Espinal, Lintzoain, and ended in Zubiri. The guide suggested we go on another 5 km to Larrasoaña but my knee was throbbing from the rough terrain and the descent so we stopped in Zubiri. The municipal alberge was off the trail in the town and cost 4 euros a person. It had a sufficient enough kitchen to cook in and we found some shops with food. At this point, we contemplated throwing in the towel because of the knee problem but decided to continue on. The knee brace helped.
Day 3: Zubiri - Cizur Menor(just outside of Pamplona)
Distance: 25 km(15.5 miles)
Approximate Walking Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: Start at 550 m(1,804 ft) - end at 450 m(1,476 ft) with several steep ascents
Day 3 was a tough day because we were fighting off the urge to go home by continuing to walk. It's a beautiful walk through the woods and passes by calming streams and the fishing holes of locals. We started to meet people we'd seen for the first two days and discuss our various aches and pains. The most important question on the trail is "Where are you from?" It's a difficult adjustment carrying 15-20 pounds of weight on your back while walking up and down steep inclines. Outside of Zubiri, it's a bit industrious but it quickly returned to the mountainous terrain of Navarra. Fortunately, the day offered several kilometers of streams beside the trail and they have a great calming effect. One of the last ascents to get into Pamplona was steep and required a bit of fence hopping. A few km before reaching Pamplona, I realized I'd left my sunglasses in Zubiri. We entered into a small town called Trinidad de Arre, which is part of Pamplona. The trail led us through the important parts of the city and many people stopped at the municipal albergue there because it can hold over 100 people. We toured the city and walked the next 5 km outside of the city to the small town of Cizur Menor. There was an albergue off to the left as you enter the town that is 4 euros and another one around the corner for 8 euros. The town's shop is a bit scant on cooking supplies so we ate sandwiches again and overpaid for the meat and cheese. There were plenty of stores in Pamplona that we should have stopped in for supplies but we figured that there would be a real supermarket in Cizur. Here, we met a guy from Sweden and a fun Canadian who would walk all the way to Santiago as well. The best part of doing the camino is meeting the people and hearing their stories. The bonds formed are strong and lasting.
Weird... I could have sworn I posted a comment.
ReplyDeleteAnyway... your trip looked tiresome and extraordinary. You both are extremely lucky to have been able to explore so much of the world. I am looking forward to the untold stories you will surely be telling me as we fatten ourselves around the dinner table during Thanksgiving! I picture you both as skin and bones right about now. This must have been quite the workout! Enjoy the Spanish food to the max before heading back to Guirilandia!
When will you be posting the rest of your trip? Longing to see the photographs!
Can't wait to see you both in November. Let's keep in touch until then.
Besos!
- Steph